I get this question ALL THE TIME and thought it was time to write about it a little! Full disclosure, I’m not a sewing machine sales-woman. I’m not here to sell you on a specific machine, and there won’t be sponsored affiliate links to Amazon. I’ve been sewing for over 25 years of my life (professionally for 13), so what I can tell you is what qualities in a machine are most important (in my opinion) for making Irish dance costumes, especially solo dresses.
Overall Qualities to Look For
Machines that can handle bulky / thick / heavy-duty sewing. If you’re making solo dresses, this is the big one (vests, skirts, etc have less bulk so this is less of an issue). More on this later.
Mechanical vs. Computerized – (A distinction for newer domestic machines) Digital machines use a built-in computer to control the sewing process. Because of this they feel very different to use than a standard mechanical machine. They often come with more fancy stitches and features, but they also tend to be more expensive in cost and pricier to repair (because of the computer components). In general I find mechanical machines are sturdier and better with the thick/bulky sewing we find ourselves doing to make a solo dress (though of course this isn’t universal and can vary from machine to machine). Mechanical machines also give you more nuanced control of your speed on a moment-to-moment basis, which is important to me. I think it’s easier to handle intermittent amounts of bulk!
If you couldn’t tell by now, I am 100% in the mechanical camp. A salesman once tried to sell me on a digital machine that didn’t use a foot pedal (“you can just push a button to start and stop!”) and I almost walked out of the store. I may be the world’s youngest curmudgeon.
Straight Shank vs Slant Shank – (A distinction for vintage machines) This is generally not a problem as about 99% of machines have a straight shank but it’s worth mentioning as it was a hassle for me for many years! For a couple decades in the 20th century Singer decided to make the needle come down at a slight angle. There were many reasons for this including that it’s easier for you to see because it’s closer to the front of the machine. However in my experience they can struggle with extreme bulk. I’m talking about the 1/4 inch thick pile of Vilene and velvet I’m trying to shove through it when I’m sewing the skirt onto my solo dress. While my old Singer Slant-o-matic was strong enough to sew through a shoe, the needle would get misaligned going through the bulkiest areas and I eventually moved on to a different machine. You can read more about slant shank machines (and see photos) here.
Industrial Sewing Machines
If you are looking to get into the dressmaking business (or the dress alterations business), you might consider an industrial machine. Industrial machines are heavy-duty, high-speed machines designed for commercial or factory sewing. They come in a variety of types and specialties. Most will be straight-stitch only, though you can find some models that also zig-zag. In general though you’ll probably still keep a domestic machine around for your other types of stitches. Industrials will come with their own table (mine is about 48×20 inches). So you need space for this to live permanently. This isn’t something you can pull out on the dining room table after dinner.
I got a Juki DDL-8700 a few years ago and it’s been a dream. It can sew through solo dress bulk fantastically (and boy have I tested it – haha!) while still handling lighter weight fabrics. This is the only specific model I’ll pitch to you in this post. If you’re looking for an “approachable” industrial machine, I’d recommend it!
Vintage Domestic Sewing Machines
Vintage machines are awesome! They’re sturdy as hell and can usually handle more bulky sewing than modern domestics. Most of the machine will be made of metal, including the outer shell. This means they’re heavier to lift, though you can certainly still carry it from room to room if you don’t have a permanent sewing space. But it’s also why they’re so sturdy and can basically be repaired forever. Have I sold you on them yet?
“Boy, they sure don’t make them like they used to!”
You can often find used machines for sale for pretty cheap online, in estate auctions, even in thrift stores as many people don’t realize their value. Many people assume they’re not as good as a new machine when often they’re better. I’ve even seen them at Goodwill for $20! (I would have paid $300 but okay…) One of my favorite brands is Kenmore (an old Sears brand), but old Singers are great too (avoid the aforementioned slant shank) and many others besides!
New Domestic Sewing Machines
Newer domestic machines are often called clamshell machines because the exterior is plastic. There are a ton of brands and models on the market. Personally I like Bernina, Juki, Janome, and Elna. If you’re willing to pay for a Bernina, they make very sturdy and reliable machines! Juki also makes a lot of great high-powered machines, though many are more specialized and have less types of stitches, etc.
Singer, once the most famous maker of sewing machines, is no longer high quality. I don’t recommend their modern machines at all. I don’t care for Viking personally, but I think that’s mostly because they don’t have any mechanical machines. I don’t have experience with Brother, so don’t have an opinion there.
Sergers
You certainly don’t need a serger to make Irish dance costumes. That being said they’re awesome to have around and make your sewing feel super professional! Sergers use 3-4 threads to create an overlock stitch that finishes edges to prevent fraying. In lieu of this you can use a zigzag or similar stitch on your domestic machine, or finish an edge with pinking shears.
Sergers are notorious for being hard to thread, but once you learn it they’re not too bad. See if a local sewing shop in your area has any classes on sergers – it’s a great way to learn more about your machine.
Some sergers come as a combination serger-coverstitch machine. (Cover stitch is the stitch used to hem t-shirts, among other things) You don’t need a cover stitch feature to do solo costumes, but if you’re doing a lot of stretch fabrics (such as leotards or athletic wear) you may want it for those.
Embroidery Machines
If you’re thinking about getting into machine embroidery, you may be feeling a little overwhelmed by the options on the market (and maybe feeling some sticker shock too)! Embroidery machines are a computerized machine that reads special files to create embroidery. Imagine an image drawn in dots (like a very detailed constellation or connect-the-dots game). The file lists the coordinates of each point, telling the machine precisely where to go for each stitch. Embroidery files can be purchased online (we sell a bunch!), or created by use of a Digitizing software (such as Embrilliance Stitch Artist, Embird, Bernina, Hatch, or Wilcom to name a few).
You put the fabric you’re embroidering in a hoop attached to the machine, and it’s this hoop that moves around to each coordinate so the needle can hit in the correct spot. The main limiting factor for embroidery machines is the size of the hoop – if you need to embroider an area larger than your hoop, you’ll need the design to be broken into pieces. My main advice (and I’ve heard this from many others) is just to buy the machine with the biggest hoop that you can afford. That will make a bigger difference to you on a day-to-day basis than any of the other more minor features. My hoop is about 8×11 inches, and I typically break embroidery for a solo dress front into 4-6 hoops (though I’ve done as many as 10!).
Other major distinguishers:
– Single needle vs multi needle. Multi needle machines can be threaded for multiple colors at once, which means less stopping and starting for you to change the thread. However, they tend to be quite pricey and unless you’re getting into the embroidery business full time, you’re better off spending your money on a bigger hoop.
– Embroidery-only machine vs Embroidery+Sewing combo. Some machines will do both, meaning that you don’t need to ALSO own a sewing machine. These will be much more expensive than a regular embroidery machine and often have a smaller hoop size. If you already have a sewing machine you like, I wouldn’t bother with the combo.
Where to Buy?
Again, not here to plug a specific store. If at all humanly possible, please don’t buy your machine from Amazon! Besides their overall terribleness, you’ll have no support if the machine comes damaged or missing accessories. The average Amazon warehouse worker barely has time to pee, let alone check a returned machine for damage or missing parts. The same goes for places like Walmart. Buy from a local shop if that is an option for you, otherwise from an online retailer specializing in sewing machines.
I hope this was helpful – happy sewing!