Drafting a Rounded Collar

**Update!**  The Rounded Collar is now included in the solo dress pattern as of the 3rd Edition (summer 2018).

©Elevation Designs

Here you’ll find drafting instructions for a mandarin color that works on a round neckline, rather than a pointed one, like what is included in the pattern.  This has become a bit of a fad lately, and I’ve had a couple people ask how to do it.

You will need:

Bodice mock-up (or real bodice pieces)
#4 Collar pattern piece
Paper (or sturdy fabric)
A pen
1.  Measure the neckline of the front bodice from center-front to the shoulder seam.  For the size I am using, it is 4 5/16″.
Measure the height of the collar pattern piece at the notch.  Mine is 1 1/8″.
[I use paper to draft this pattern piece.  I also pin it to a dress form.  If you are going to be drafting this on a live human, you may want to make this piece out of some stiff/sturdy fabric because it will be easier to pin onto the fabric bodice.  You could even baste it on.]


2.  Draw a rectangle that is twice the length of the neckline and exactly the height of the collar (mine is 8 5/8″ x 1 1/8″).  Mark the mid-point of this rectangle as center-front.  Trace the back half of the collar (from the notch to center-back) onto each side of the rectangle.  It should look something like this.
 3.  Cut the strip out and clip the front rectangle section about every 1/2″ starting at the top of the strip and going almost all the way to the bottom edge.  Make sure not to cut all the way through; the middle of your strip should look sort of like fringe.  There is no need to  clip the back half; it does not need to change.
4.  Starting at center-front, pin the collar onto the neck edge.  It will really help to have the neck edge drawn or shown with stitching.
 5.  Carefully tape the fringes into your desired shape.  You will notice that in some places (like the front) the fringe wants to overlap, but at others (like the sides) it angles away from itself.  Let the front overlap enough that the collar isn’t gaping forward, but not so much that it will choke your dancer.  Try to keep it as symmetrical as possible.
 6.  Once all the fringes have been taped together, remove the collar piece.  It should look something like this.  Fold the collar draft in half and lay it on a fresh piece of paper.
7.  The two halves probably won’t be exactly the same.  We do the best we can.  Trace both halves onto the fresh paper so that they overlap.   Mine were very close to being identical, but you can see a bit of variation in the middle of the bottom line.
8.  True up your pattern, splitting the difference where the two halves disagreed.  Mark your center-back, center-front, and shoulder notch (the shoulder notch goes where the front and back sections meet).
Follow the seam allowance suggestions on the pointed collar, and follow the same construction steps.  Enjoy!

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