“Make a mock-up”, we say! “Check the fit before you start”, we say! Well what does that mean? Generally that it’s not too tight, too loose, too long, too short, no funny bunching, or gaping, or anywhere uncomfortable. Easy enough, right? In this post, I want to highlight how to set yourself up for success …
Category: Solo Dresses
Solo Dress Layers Visual
One of the most confusing parts of starting your first solo dress can be understanding the layers of fabric, stiffener, and interfacing. Here’s a visual breakdown of the materials of each piece of the dress! Bodice Top: Fashion fabric(s) of choiceBottom: Base material (cotton twill or similar) The base layer gives a light structure to …
Drafting the “Flippy Skirt”
What is the style that you’re calling “flippy skirt”? The “flippy skirt” style has grown in popularity over the last couple years, mainly due to its use by Eire Designs/Gavin Doherty*. I was asked to draft one last month, so I thought I’d create a little tutorial so you can draft your own at home. …
An Ode to Bust Cup Adjustments
Our new 4th Ed. Irish dance solo dress pattern offers a Bust Cup Adjustment add-on! Our fashion line also includes these options, but we’re thrilled to be able to offer this feature in our Irish dance patterns too! I thought this was a great time to talk about why cup adjustments are amazing, how different …
Constructing Skirt Pieces
Hello! I’ve got a photo tutorial for you today. I’ll go through the steps to construct lined skirt pieces, such as those used in Skirts II, IV, V, VI, and VII in the 3rd Edition of the pattern. Each piece of the skirt is made of 3 layers:1. Fashion fabric – Our top layer, the …
Modifying the Skirt Shape (changing the angle or hem)
In this post I’ll go over some pattern drafting techniques you can use to modify the shape of the skirt. These all involve cutting, splicing, or trimming the pattern piece. I’d recommend tracing a copy to use, so you don’t destroy the original. Note: This post was created for an earlier edition of the pattern, …
Lining and the Center-Back Skirt Seam
The center-back seam allowance of the skirt is never pretty. The skirt gets lined, usually in beautiful contrasting fabric that flashes when the dancer kicks, but the bulky seam allowance always stands out, looking gross and un-finished. Due to the way the skirt is constructed, and the fact that the center-back is an alteration point, …
Drafting a Slimmer Sleeve
Update: A Slim Sleeve is now included in the Solo Dress pattern, or can be purchased separately for updating existing costumes. Styles change quickly and many people have asked me about drafting a slimmer sleeve as sheer and even skin-tight sleeves come into greater popularity (left). The sleeve in the Gúna Rince pattern …
Skirt Side-Pleat (and Under-Skirt) Construction
Many folks find the skirt’s side-pleats the hardest part of construction to wrap their head around. It’s probably the part that’s farthest from typical fashion construction, so this is understandable. I’ve been wanting to make a photo tutorial of these steps for a while, and have finally been able to take some photos while working …
Drafting a Rounded Collar
**Update!** The Rounded Collar is now included in the solo dress pattern as of the 3rd Edition (summer 2018). Here you’ll find drafting instructions for a mandarin color that works on a round neckline, rather than a pointed one, like what is included in the pattern. This has become a bit of a fad lately, and …